We sorted out our additional Chobi tickets after finding a place to camp with the Khwai River Trust, a community based organisation that has a camp just outside of the Moremi.

We headed to the third bridge camp site inside the reserve. We had to cover the sixty or so miles to get to the main gate. The road turned bad on the journey up but we still managed to get a good speed of 80kmp, so made ground quickly.

Inside the south gate, we hit the sand. Some of the routes were still impassable, so we took the middle route to the third bridge. Some quality driving. Muddy pools and long stretches of thick sand. We scared off a herd of elephants, seeing their backsides as they scurried off into the bush!

We still really want to see large herds of elephants and cheetah. They’ve eluded us so far, but here or Chobi might supply the goods. We got lost near Xakanaxa and it took us down one minor track. I saw something in the bushes along this track and couldn’t make out what it was. Next, a lion pops its head out from the grass. We then counted another seven male lions all lying down in the grass. They were larger than we had seen before and healthier, without scars or wounds. We got lucky with the lions again.

Fifteen kilometers from the camp, we got stuck behind a convoy of vehicles all heading to the same campsite. We took up the rear. They stopped and walked through some long stretches of water. We all got through, then we had to beep down the Toyota in front when its spare wheel came off. After we got settled at the camp site, we got a fire going. There was a lone elephant eating nearby which was gradually getting closer. It ventured off after a while whilst we were cooking over the fire. In the night we heard lions and hyenas in the distance. A wild night’s sleep right in the middle of the reserve.

We got up early to take in a safari drive on our way to the Mboma Boat Station. We wanted to take a Mokoro ( A traditional dug-out canoe design, made of fibre glass in the reserve) trip through the delta for two hours. It offered a totally different experience. Thinking we wouldn’t see any game, we saw a large bull elephant eating amongst the reeds. It stayed away from us for a while, then came closer and crossed the narrow channel right in form of us. Bun seems to have no fear when it comes to elephants but for me it’s the one animal that I want to keep well away from. I’ve heard too many stories of angry elephants! As well as wildlife, we saw the night and day lilies that are everywhere on the delta.

We stopped for lunch near the airstrip and then went off on many loops trying to find cheetahs. No luck, so we headed to south gate camp. We BBQ some meat over the fire. When we were done with the bones we chucked them into the  bush behind us. We had a feeling that this would attract some wild beast and it did. Bun had dropped off in the tent and I was using the laptop when I heard some loud sniffing nearby and shook Bun to wake up. It had to be a hyenna and it was. It spent ages walking about sniffing and finding our bones! Bun then got her headtorch and unzipped her window to see if she could see it. It was in the bush nearby before it ran off. Bun then asked me to climb down the steps and get some toilet paper. I had to climb down the ladder naked to get it whilst knowing that the hyena was nearby, probably checking us out!