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Too many episodes of Dexter last night! We rose early and got going to Kigali, the capital. Before we left I asked the hotel to make a flask of African tea – similar to what we’ve had before. Very milky, but this time ginger is added and gives it a lovely taste.

We made it to Kigali in good time. We headed straight to gorilla hq to sort out the tickets. Luckily they had two spare to see them tomorrow, so we will head back to Ruhengeri later and stay where we were the other day.

We hope to be back in Kigali by tomorrow evening.

It looked an easy journey on the map, but it’s not called ‘the country of a thousand hills’ for nothing! We wanted to follow Lake Kivu south towards Kibuye before heading towards the capital

As we left town we noticed hundred of people lining up patiently outside of the Primus brewary. It is Genocide Memorial Day marking the day, sixteen years ago, when the genocide started.

On the whole drive that day we noticed small groups gathered as we passed villages up in the hills. We picked up a man who was in the area to see his sister. We tried to bring up the topic, but we know some people are reluctant to talk about it. We didn’t want to appear rude. We only travelled with him for a while. I did ask him what they were talking about and he said that they are making it aware to people that this should never happen again.

Later that day we heard on the radio, that a boat had capsized in strong winds on Lake Kivu. The boat was heading for Kibuye to commemorate the genocide. Twelve people had been feared dead and over fifty people rescued. Before we heard the new, we had noticed a few Landcruiser ambulances driving around with flashing lights. The scene we had from the hotel balcony gave no indication that there was high winds out on the lake. We were thinking that if this was Europe, there would be hundreds of boats out on the lake enjoying it on a day like this. There were islands dotted around the lake that would have made a great day trip. It was odd not seeing any activity on the lake.

I got in a run, up and down the steep hill, before almost collapsing back at the hotel. We camped outside of the hotel that night. It was the only place we could find in Kibuye as an alternative to paying for a room. It’s only 110kms from Kigali and it’s screaming out for a decent hotel.

April 2010