Route taken: Kabale, Katuna (border crossing), Byumba, then mountain road to Ruhengeri

We’ve now covered 16,419 miles since London – half of that going round in circles in Ethiopia!

First border crossing in Africa where we haven’t needed a visa so we were on the move again quickly after exchanging the last of our Uganda money. Rwanda joined the commonwealth last November, the latest non former British colony to do so. After the genocide sixteen years ago, Rwanda has transformed itself and improved it’s border realtions with the DRC. English has also replaced French as the first language taught in Rwandan schools.

In the run-up to the election in August, there are reports that Rwandan’s government has been attacking and intimidation it’s critics.

We realised we had crossed in the right place for Kigali, but not for Ruhengari where we were heading, so after 20kms we stopped in Byumba and and took the road through the mountains to head north-west to point us in the right direction again.

It was like being back in Ethiopia again. Mountain passes that took us through some spectacular scenery. We followed a ridge looking down over tea plantations and had groups of kids jumping and waving at us as we passed. Then came cedar forest and several wooden bridges that we had to cross. After several hours we were back on track again and on tarmac for the last stretch to Ruhengeri.

We want to spend a fair bit of time in Rwanda. In Uganda we didn’t make time to venture off the beaten track much. It happened instantly in Rwanda. We were passing mountain villages and tracks that had been weathered away by the recent rains. It was the best driving days since northern Kenya.

We made to Ruhengeri quite late. The Parc National des Volcans is the closest national park and the best place to see the gorillas. A chain of seven volcanoes, it forms a border with the DRC and Uganda. It is where Dian Fossey recorded her time with the gorillas. The forested slopes of the Karisimbi volcano is where you can see the large Susa family of 35 gorillas.