Route taken: Masaka, Sanga, Mbarara, Ntungamo, Kabale, Lake Bunyonyi

We stopped overnight in Masaka to break the journey between Kampala and Kabale and camped at Masaka Backpackers. A great spot overlooking the distant hills, we had the place almost to ourselves. It rained overnight and till midday the next day.

We packed away in a rush and got going before it was too late to make it to Kabale. We dropped a Dutchman into town, who was living in the area teaching English. We passed the equator for the third time. Lunch stop at a restaurant in Ntungamo where I luckily caught the second half of the Man U v Chelsea game with the locals. Bun wasn’t too fussed. We tried some local food which we hadn’t tasted since we arrived. Stewed goat with matoko (smashed plantains), rice and a lovely sauce. A few gritty bits but it was tasty and washed down with a bottle of Stoney’s (fiery ginger beer).

The remaining drive was beautiful. We passed rolling terraced hills. It wasn’t as dense as eastern Uganda but the land was used more for cattle farming with cows with the biggest horns we have ever seen. Kabale has been called the Switzerland of Africa and we could see why.

We arrived at Lake Bunyonyi and found a place right next to the lake. Easter Sunday – only two chocolate bars in sight and Bun has found them in the bottom of the fridge which we’ve had since Luxor in Egypt! Not also forgetting Bun’s ready meal of treacle pudding which she has hid well out of sight since we left.

There are families down from Kampala for the weekend. A few passed us as they wandered down to see the lake close-up. We got the celebrity treatment when a little Indian boy raced ahead of his family and start filming the Landcruiser and then us sitting at the back whilst we were making breakfast. He poked his video camera inside the tent and then his family arrived. They were as bad and had a long look at how we had the vehicle set-up!

The same happened later in the day. Another group of Indan’s with their cameras, taking photos of us and the tent on the roof! Personal space is hard to come by in Africa! Bun also had to have a running conversation with a twelve year old kid from the other side of the lake. He was watching his cows eating grass and kept firing question over to Bun. I tried to ignore him until I shouted jokingly back at him ‘What do you want?’ which didn’t stop him. He got distracted when his friend turned up.

Still, the lake is a stunning place to relax for a few days. We didn’t take a boat trip to any of the islands. There is one island over one hours boat ride away where you can see Pygmies, who had been driven from the forest and settled on the lake shore. Temperatures a little cooler here. The climate is like being in mid -Wales with red soil and banana trees everywhere.

Watching: Dexter -Season 1
Sounds: Brownswood Bubblers Vol 5 and Bonobo: Black Sands