After a daytime drive from Mount Sinai, we moved towards the Red Sea. We knew we couldn’t make it to Cairo before dark so set out to find a good camping spot for the night. A man we met the day before recommended stopping at Hammam Fara’un, a natural spring right next to the coast.

We sussed out the area for a while, noticing two young men looking at us through binoculars who turned out to be in the army. They were monitoring that stretch of the coast and it only became apparant later in the night that they were looking out for boats smuggling drugs.

We also met a German man called Stefan who turned up just after we found a spot to camp. He is also travelling to South Africa, solo on his motorbike, and we enjoyed the evening with him. We have to thank him for supplying us with all the GPS maps we were missing for Africa, which we were planning to buy later on our trip.

Saturday morning we spent in the caves known as Hammam Fara’un or Pharaoh’s bath. Used by bedoiun men as a cure for ailments, we used the natural sauna before jumping in the sea to cool off. The heat coming off the rocks was intense.

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